Telluride is a little gem nestled in a box-canyon deep in the San Juan Mountains. Although challenging to get to it's definitely worth the effort, as it's truly one of the most picturesque towns in the world. With only one road in, the Victorian charm and architecture of this once old mining town mask the collection of great shops, restaurants, galleries, and insanely good skiing that hides within.
One of the best things about Telluride is that you don’t need a car unless you’re planning a road trip to check out the area or cross-country ski in a remote location. The best way to get there is to fly into Telluride Airport (re-opening on November 3rd, 2009 with a new runway), or Montrose (an hour and a half drive from town). You can then take a shuttle to town or Mountain Village via Telluride Express or Mtn Limo.
The only way to really get a sense of Telluride is to stick around for a few days, especially because it’s so challenging to get to. In terms of lodging, you have two main choices – the Town of Telluride (the historic mining town) or Mountain Village (the newer resort town). My choice as always would be to stay in the Town of Telluride at one of the local hotels so you can truly absorb what makes the town so special and unique – plus all the shops, restaurants and lifts are within walking distance. Mountain Village doesn’t have a lot of options for dining or nightlife, although everything is accessible by a beautiful gondola ride (definitely check the hours of operation).
Telluride’s character is more eclectic and unique than most ski towns. It was an active mining town until the early 1970’s, when it was over-taken by hippies. Today, the town definitely retains a hippy vibe, but since really being discovered by the general public and being developed as a world-class ski resort in the last fifteen years, it has chic quality as well. It definitely doesn’t have the fur coats and shopping that Aspen boasts, but it does offer a local flavor of cultured folks who want to live somewhere beautiful. Telluriders are also huge environmentalists. They fought to keep the expansive valley floor that surrounds the town pristine without further development. As a result, Telluride will always remain quaint and preserved in the charm that has always made it so special.
In regards to town amenities, one thing Telluride isn’t lacking is fine dining options. You won't have enough nights to take advantage of all the cuisines offered. There may not be a ton of shopping, but the sprinkle of art galleries are definitely worth a look. Nightlife options are thin as most people head in early to feel good on the slopes the next day, but if you want to keep the candle lit at both ends you can do so with a martini or live music and a beer.
Overall, the vibe of Telluride is pretty understated and laid back. You can wear jeans to the best restaurants in town, but it’s a little more stylish then a sweatshirt. It’s a casual elegance with an emphasis on comfort. Put it this way, you will feel incredibly out of place walking down the street in a fur coat…and you might even hear some snickers.
With such a quick amount of growth and development though the 90’s I think Telluriders were a bit territorial, and they could definitely send off a chilly vibe to tourists. But years have gone by and the town has evolved, and it is now a more comfortable environment for folks to visit. Telluriders understand that it takes a certain kind of person to choose the hardest place to get to for their ski vacation, so they figure that you probably appreciate it as much as they do.
So how does Telluride define luxury? It’s great skiing, hiking to see the frozen Bridal Veil falls, delicious food and wine, a show at the Sheridan Opera House, no crowds or lift-lines, a relaxed and casual environment, walking everywhere on your vacation...all set against the backdrop of the most dramatic peaks in the Rockies.
3 places that epitomize Telluride:
- There is a little area on Main Street in Telluride where you’ll find many locals hanging out, procrastinating work or whatever errands they might have to run, and chatting about their day on the hill. It’s an outdoor area shared by two establishments: Coffee Cowboy (an outdoor trailer that serves up the best cup of joe and smoothies in town) and La Cocina de Luz (or “Lucas’s” the nickname after the owner Lucas Price). This is where we go for coffee, but also for an awesome all organic Mexican breakfast. We are the ones sitting in the sun at one of the many picnic benches.
- While in town a play or performance at the Sheridan Opera House it is not to be missed. The theater is a classic beautiful velvet seated gorgeous gem. You will be blown away by the décor, look and comfort.
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It’s hard to find independent bookstores anymore but we still have a thriving one located on Main Street in Telluride: Between the Covers Bookstore and Espresso Bar. Owned by Stuart and Joanna Brown. Call ahead for your NY Times as they are generally sold out during high season. They have a small coffee shop in the back, and a great local Telluride section.
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Best Ways to Stay in Telluride
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Photos courtesy of (from top to bottom) Doug Berry (top two); Between the Covers Bookstore and Espresso Bar
